I first met Bill Jackson as a reporter with Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) in Washington, covering the impact of trade policy on textile and apparel manufacturers and retailers for a trade publication known as the “Bible of Fashion.”
Flashing those credentials did not automatically open the doors on Capitol Hill or within the various federal agencies spanning three administrations, though they were the golden ticket to the glittery runways and showrooms on Seventh Avenue and the hallowed fashion ateliers of Paris and Milan.
But as I became acquainted with administration officials in the agencies crafting policies impacting the industry as a whole, the doors began to open a little wider.
Bill became Assistant U.S. Trade Representative for Textiles (AUSTR) in April 2016, according to his official USTR bio, and I met him for the first time at an industry event that I was covering for WWD.
I was on deadline for the story, and it would have been a coup for a trade reporter to get a quote from an important trade official and insider like Bill. But Bill declined the interview request at the time, with a grin and an “I know better than to speak to a reporter” glint in his eye.
Obtaining a quote from Bill became my mission over the years and though I probably did ultimately score a quote on the record from him, it was a rare occurrence.
And it remained that way until the close of NCTO’s 19th Annual Meeting on March 30, when Bill, who was a day shy of retirement, agreed to answer a few questions from me (now VP of Communications for NCTO) about his tenure as AUSTR of Textiles and his outlook for the U.S. textile industry.
NCTO: What have you learned about the textile industry during your tenure at USTR?
BJ: I think the key thing about the textile industry that people don’t know about is that it’s really a cutting-edge industry. There are so many things going on that are cutting-edge technologies ranging from a variety of health applications to fire retardants, to uniforms for the military and first responders. And people have this dated sense that it’s just yarns, or just some old-fashioned materials but it’s really cutting edge. I’ve seen that firsthand in facilities throughout the United States, including NCTO members.
I think it’s an industry that has a bright future. It has a lot of challenges, but those challenges are being tackled with the industry and in partnership with the government, and hopefully Congress will get behind some of these new initiatives. I’m hopeful for this industry to be the model for Made in USA manufacturing.
NCTO: What has been your biggest surprise about the industry—a preconceived idea you had about it that changed after your onsite factory tours and seeing firsthand what this industry is capable of innovating?
B.J.: I think it’s probably been the way in which the industry has a lot of flexibility and the way it has adapted. Many of these companies date from the 19th Century and yet they have innovated and changed their production techniques; they’ve changed their product lines and they are thriving today.
And we saw the ability of the flexibility during the PPE pandemic when they all got together– including some companies that compete against each other– to find a way to create Made in USA PPE during that national emergency. I think again these companies may be old, but they are experienced, they are innovative, and they are positioned for the future.
NCTO: While promoting policies that bolster Made in America and domestic production is critical, there is also a co-production chain with Central America and the region that is vitally important to our member companies. Can you speak to that as well as the importance of the yarn forward rule in CAFTA?
B.J.: I remember NCTO did a press release a few years ago just before Christmas, saying that when you are looking to buy gifts, don’t just look for Made in USA. Please look for Made in USA but when you see something made in Central America and it says Honduras, Guatemala, El Salvador, those products probably have a substantial amount from U.S. manufacturing—the fibers, yarns and fabrics.
And that is one of the reasons why we think the partnership in that co-production from U.S. domestic manufacturers and apparel manufacturing in Central America is so important. It is a potential way of our meeting some challenges we have right now with some of the supply chains to bring production closer to our shores.
There is no question that that Biden-Harris administration fully supports the yarn forward approach to rules of origin in our free trade agreements. We heard Ambassador [Katherine] Tai, say that in her remarks this morning. CAFTA-DR really is the cement that holds together the supply chain and yarn forward is the core of that.
Bill was referring to an exclusive pre-recorded message from U.S. Trade Representative Katherine Tai, which included the following remarks:
“Manufacturing is rebounding faster than it has in almost 40 years. And a record 10.5 million small businesses were created in the last two years.
Trade plays an integral part in this new story.
We’re incentivizing U.S.- and regionally-based production and reducing our reliance on products and inputs from distant shores, a vulnerability that the pandemic so clearly brought to light.
We’re factoring in the impact of trade on rural and disadvantaged communities, including those in which many of you operate.
And through Vice President Harris’ Call to Action initiative, we’re challenging companies to invest in the textile sectors in El Salvador, Guatemala, and Honduras.
We’ve already seen over a $1 billion in new commitments to invest or source from the region, which will help to bolster the North American supply chain and address increased migration pressures from Central America.
A lack of economic opportunity is clearly one of the pressures behind migration, and we know that the textile and apparel sectors present significant opportunities for expanded employment, especially for women. And as part of our commitment to ending the race to the bottom, we want those jobs to be in safe facilities, where basic worker rights are upheld.
Not only will these investments and sourcing commitments help increase economic opportunities in those countries, they will also promote greater near-shoring and support American jobs that provide the yarns and fabrics that go into Central American apparel production.
Make no mistake—we know how important the yarn-forward rules of origin are for the success of our trade partnership with the region. Those rules provide the certainty that companies need to invest in and expand operations, which also creates good-paying jobs both in the United States and in Central America.” –Ambassador Katherine Tai
The administration’s support of a worker-centric trade agenda that supports domestic and regional manufacturing and workers and strives to create a level playing field to enable the industry to meet global challenges head on, is critical.
The U.S. textile industry faces a multitude of challenges, ranging from efforts by certain importers to weaken the CAFTA-DR rule of origin (which would adversely impact the U.S. and Central American co-production chain) to competing with imports in a global apparel supply chain tainted by forced labor apparel from Xinjiang, China.
But this industry has remained resilient for more than 100 years and will continue to contribute strongly to the U.S. economy by coordinating closely with USTR and other key agencies and its allies on Capitol Hill.
Perhaps fittingly, the final word should go to one of the lieutenants at USTR who worked behind the scenes to tirelessly address textile-related issues throughout his tenure.
From Bill Jackson’s post on LinkedIn:
“Nearly 39 years after taking my oath of office at the State Department, and 21 years after starting work at the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative, today is my last day of service with the federal government. I’ve traveled the world, helped set up UN peacekeeping operations in three countries, and negotiated trade agreements. Now I’m looking forward to new adventures, including volunteering in the community, learning new things, and spending more time with my family (whether they like it or not). Thanks to all who have supported and mentored me over the years.”
Bipartisan Group of 38 Lawmakers Sends Letter to Secretary of Commerce Urging Support of Strong CAFTA-DR Rules of Origin & Warning Against Importer-led Attempts to Change Rules
/in Press Releases /by Kristi EllisWASHINGTON –A bipartisan group of 38 lawmakers sent a letter to Commerce Secretary Gina Raimondo urging her support of the current rules of origin in the Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR) that are working to spur significant investment and employment in the region.
The lawmakers also warned that attempts by certain importers to amend the rules would open the back door to China and significantly harm investment in the U.S. -CAFTA region and the vibrant textile and apparel co-production chain in the U.S. and the region, which employs more than one million workers.
“The rules of origin governing textile and apparel production and trade under CAFTA-DR have clear benefits and have strengthened our regional supply chains by fostering a stable business environment where American and regional manufacturers can thrive. We strongly urge you to continue following the longstanding CAFTA-DR short supply list process, which requires requestors to submit public petitions for review, and reject requests to circumvent it,” the letter states.
“Bypassing the existing short supply petition and review system could result in non-signatory nations gaining a backdoor entrance to CAFTA-DR benefits. We fear that the People’s Republic of China (PRC), as the dominant global supplier of yarns and fabrics, would be the major winner under this proposal,” they wrote.
Please also see a press release from Rep. McHenry here quoting NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas.
The letter, made public today, was sent in advance of a Senate Finance Subcommittee hearing titled, “Economic Cooperation for a Stronger and More Resilient Western Hemisphere,” scheduled for today at 3 pm.
Many in Congress and the administration have maintained support for a strong rules-based CAFTA-DR. Most recently, U.S. Trade Representative, Ambassador Katherine Tai, voiced her strong support for the current CAFTA-DR rules in a special video presentation at NCTO’s annual meeting at the end of March. See her remarks here.
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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.
CONTACT:
Kristi Ellis
Vice President, Communications
National Council of Textile Organizations
kellis@ncto.org | 202.684.3091
Congressional Scrutiny Intensifies Over De Minimis Loophole Bipartisan Concern Mounts
/in TIN Blog /by Kristi EllisCongressional and federal regulatory scrutiny of Chinese imports entering the U.S. through a trade loophole in U.S. trade law has intensified over the past few weeks, as calls to address and potentially change a little-known legal trade mechanism known as “Section 321 de minimis” continue to gain momentum.
Key Republican and Democratic lawmakers on Capitol Hill, including the House Ways & Means Chairman, the Chairman of the Select Committee on the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) and senators have weighed in on this mechanism.
The de minimis provision of U.S. trade law allows a package of goods valued at $800 or less per person to come into the country duty free everyday through e-commerce. And it is now being aggressively used, letting millions of products into the U.S. market duty free that otherwise would be subject to tariffs, penalty tariffs, taxes and customs inspection.
In 2016, the U.S. government raised the de minimis threshold to $800 while the Chinese government kept its own threshold at meager $8. Since then, e-commerce shipments from China have exploded, reportedly driven in large part by Chinese e-commerce companies and other mass marketers, which have enjoyed meteoric growth.
In fact, U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) estimates that we are on pace to hit over 1 billion in de minimis shipments this year alone, which equates to approximately 2.7 million shipments a day. This is estimated to be the highest spike in de minimis imports—up from 2 million shipments per day in fiscal year 2021. To provide further context to the alarming nature of this exponential growth in de minimis shipments, CBP data estimates that these shipments totaled only 150 million in fiscal 2016—the year Congress increased the de minimis threshold from $200 to $800.
Congressional leaders have recently sounded the alarm about the de minimis mechanism.
Most recently, Sen. Marco Rubio penned an op-ed published in Newsweek on the de minimis loophole that is reportedly allowing goods made with forced labor to enter into the United States unchecked and undermining the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA). Sen. Rubio says it is time to “reevaluate our nation’s de minimis standards.”
Rep. Earl Blumenauer (D-OR), ranking member on the Ways & Means trade subcommittee, who is the lead sponsor of legislation aimed at prohibiting goods from non-market economies that are also on a government trade watchlist–China—from benefiting from de minimis treatment, said at a House Ways & Means hearing on May 9 that he planned to reintroduce his legislation in this session of Congress, and he appeared to gain some support from Chairman Smith.
He said companies use “creative invoicing” on imported products or shipments valued at over the $800 de minimis threshold to take advantage of the duty-free benefits and evade inspection, noting the loophole is “swallowing the exception in ways that are really detrimental to American business and the safety of American consumers.”
And in what could prove to be a defining moment, House Ways & Means Chairman Jason Smith (R-MO) agreed this is a major problem.
Their full exchange can be viewed here:
https://youtu.be/8T_WGG9bXvM
The House Select Committee on the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) recently opened a probe into companies and brands at the center of allegations over tainted apparel tied to forced labor in Xinjiang and the reported abuse of the de minimis loophole.
Rep. Mike Gallagher (R-WI), chairman of the committee was recently on major news networks to voice concern about the aggressive use of the de minimis loophole and compliance with UFLPA. See the video clip here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwIFJf6IU6k
Congressman Gallagher also addressed the de minimis issue specifically in a video he released on Twitter. See the clip here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCg1XYj3ARU
“The de minimis exception wasn’t supposed to be a loophole for foreign businesses looking to skirt human rights legislation and taxes,” Rep. Gallagher said. “It was meant to minimize the burden on customs agents actually.”
In addition, Democratic leaders from the China Select Committee have made recent comments. See a clip here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLY6fRajTPU
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) has been highly engaged on these issues for the past four years, raising concerns about the flagrant use of de minimis to facilitate nearly 3 million packages a day to the U.S., allowing tainted and counterfeit apparel and other consumer products to bleed into the U.S. market.
NCTO has testified at congressional hearings and engaged in numerous meetings with lawmakers and U.S. trade officials. She has also raised alarm over the issues in countless interviews and several op-eds.
See Glas’ three op-eds on de minimis here:
As Glas notes in her op-eds, “At $800, the United States has one of the highest in the world. While we hold our door wide open, the Chinese government keeps its door virtually shut [to U.S. exports]. An $800 versus $8 limit is hardly a reciprocal arrangement. Instead, we’re unilaterally giving China a massive tax and trade concession. The very least we should do is match China’s threshold.”
Meanwhile, Congress passed, and the President signed into law, the ULFPA in December 2021, there has been global condemnation about the abuse of Uyghur minorities in Xinjiang, China and numerous exposés from prominent news outlets about the use of forced labor to make widely known global apparel brands and labels.
A Bloomberg report seemingly crystallized the connections through laboratory tests conducted by the news outlet that reportedly found garments shipped to the U.S. by Shein were made with cotton from China’s Xinjiang region.
This is clearly a case of two government policies—UFLPA and an outdated de minimis mechanism– working at cross-purposes. We are seeing the unintended consequence of one policy canceling out the other.
The de minimis mechanism is literally undermining efforts to hold China accountable, hurting American manufacturing competitiveness, and stifling the government’s ability to enforce the UFLPA.
Intensifying pressure on the two Chinese e-commerce giants to change their practices is a step in the right direction but to truly address the root cause of the problem, Congress should and can act to close the de minimis loophole.
Last year, the House of Representatives passed legislation with bipartisan support that is designed to close the de minimis loophole, but the legislation to date has stalled in Congress.
Closure of this loophole will prevent companies from overtly circumventing other measures to curb China’s illegal trade practices, including the 301 tariffs and the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act. And help level the playing field for American textile and apparel manufacturers.
Glen Raven Hosts Deputy Assistant Secretary Jennifer Knight, Highlighting Industry’s Competitiveness, Sustainability, Capital Investments & Jobs
/in Press Releases, Recent News /by Kristi EllisWASHINGTON –Glen Raven hosted Jennifer Knight, Deputy Assistant Secretary for Textiles, Consumer Goods, Materials Industries, Critical Minerals and Metals with the U.S. Department of Commerce’s International Trade Administration, at the company’s state-of-the art manufacturing facility in Anderson, South Carolina today, where the company manufactures its Sunbrella® flagship brand. The company is beginning to scale a major expansion plan started in 2021, illustrating continued investment and growth by a leader in the U.S. textile industry and its importance to the U.S. economy.
“We were honored to host Deputy Assistant Secretary Knight at our Sunbrella facility in Anderson, South Carolina to give her a firsthand experience of our advanced manufacturing facilities, sustainable initiatives, and the passionate work of our U.S. manufacturing teams,” said Glen Raven CEO Leib Oehmig. “The opportunity to discuss with a key trade official the impact of our nation’s global trade polices on our company and our dedicated workers is invaluable. We highlighted the importance of Glen Raven’s contribution to our local communities, as well as the critical need to maintain a domestic textile and apparel industry and to promote policies that support a resilient and competitive supply chain, innovation and research and a vibrant and well-trained workforce. We are thankful for Deputy Assistant Secretary Knight’s commitment to understanding the challenges we face in the global trade arena and appreciate the dialogue we had with her here today.”
“Public-private sector engagement is key to supporting a competitive and resilient textile and apparel supply chain and I am pleased to visit Glen Raven, a prime example of our modern domestic textile industry with its state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities for high-performance fabrics,” said Deputy Assistant Secretary Knight. “ITA continues to support American manufacturers and recognizes the importance of building an innovative, diverse and skilled workforce.”
Glen Raven, a family-owned company founded in 1880, operates five manufacturing facilities in North and South Carolina employing 2,500 people, including their joint venture with Shawmut Corporation. The company is currently in the process of scaling a $250 million multi-phase U.S. capacity expansion plan of its facilities and infrastructure to meet customer demand.
At Glen Raven, Knight toured Glen Raven’s Sunbrella® facilities, part of the company’s Custom Fabrics division, which includes flagship brands Sunbrella® and Dickson®. Glen Raven also has two other divisions, including Glen Raven Technical Fabrics with GlenGuard®, StrataTM and Glen Raven Logistics; and Trivantage, one of the nation’s largest business-to-business distributors for the awning, marine, upholstery and shade sail industries.
Glen Raven is a leader in the upholstery, marine, shading, automotive, military, geotextile, and protective workwear markets and operates national distribution and logistics subsidiaries.
Knight’s visit to Glen Raven’s Sunbrella® facilities comes at a critical time for the company and the U.S. textile supply chain, which produced $65.8 billion in output in 2021 and employed 538,000 workers. Glen Raven is part of the broader textile industry that is a critical manufacturing segment contributing to job growth, investments, and innovation. From 2012-2021, capital investment in U.S. yarn, fabric, apparel & sewn products manufacturing totals $20.9 billion.
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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.
DOWNLOAD RELEASE
CONTACT: Kristi Ellis
(202) 684-3091
www.ncto.org
American Textiles Sustainability Achievements 2023
/in TIN Blog /by Rebecca TantilloIn celebration of Earth Day, which falls on April 22 each year, the National Council of Textile Organizations is sharing media coverage and highlights of sustainable achievements and developments by the American textile and apparel industry thus far in 2023.
The U.S. textile industry, its domestic suppliers, and customers are an important component of the U.S. economy and are found in every region of the country. In addition, the domestic textile industry provides numerous advantages for a greener future, including transparent supply chains with a reduced carbon footprint for American consumers and leading innovations in eco-friendly production and in environmental standards and regulations.
We are happy to share the industry’s achievements for the year thus far. American textiles continue to look for new ways to improve current production standards and invent new solutions for the future. Join us in celebrating these amazing, sustainable achievements by American textiles. Happy Earth Day!
eTextile Communications Glen Raven releases Corporate Sustainability Report April 20, 2023
Sourcing Journal Fruit of the Loom’s New Undies Use Lenzing Ecovero April 20, 2023
Nonwovens Industry Trützschler Presents Efficient Solutions for Manufacturing Fiber-Based Nonwovens April 20, 2023
Architectural Digest 7 Sustainable Materials and Products Designers Should Know About Right Now April 20, 2023
AP News HanesBrands Makes Significant Progress Toward its 2025 and 2030 Global Sustainability Goals April 20, 2023
AP News Milliken & Company Marks Five Years of Progress in 2022 Sustainability Report, “FOR HUMANKIND” April 19, 2023
eTextile Communications Lenzing expands responsible viscose fiber portfolio with new offering April 13, 2023
eTextile Communications Teijin supports JCI’s call for stronger action on climate, energy crises April 13, 2023
eTextile Communications Teijin Frontier facilitates recycling of discarded polyester apparel April 13, 2023
Media Africa 247 The LYCRA Company Launches LYCRA EnviroFit™ Fiber at INDEX™ 23 April 13, 2023
BioFuels Digest Fruit of the Loom introduces wood fiber underwear for men April 10, 2023
Alexander City Outlook HanesBrands’ Chief Sustainability Officer Offers Tips on Becoming a More Conscious Consumer Ahead of Earth Day April 12, 2023
Textile World Teijin Frontier Facilitates Recycling Of Discarded Polyester Apparel With Novel Technology For Removing Polyurethane Elastomer Fiber April 10, 2023
Sourcing Journal Lenzing Taps 3 Mills to Produce Mechanically Recycled Tencel April 7, 2023
Business Wire The LYCRA Company Launches LYCRA EnviroFit™ Fiber at INDEX™ 23 April 13, 2023
HanesBrands HanesBrands Awarded U.S. EPA Energy Star Award for Environmental Stewardship for 14thConsecutive Year March 29, 2023
Inside Fashion Live Cone Denim Establishes Certified Recycled Cotton Supply Chain March 23, 2023
Furniture, Lighting & Décor Glen Raven Inc. to Eliminate PFAS Chemicals Across Entire Portfolio March 22, 2023
Sourcing Journal Lycra’s Global Factories Achieve High Higg Assessment Marks March 22, 2023
Sourcing Journal Glen Raven to Remove PFAS from its Fabrics March 21, 2023
Sourcing Journal’s Rivet YKK NAMED ‘SUPPLIER ENGAGEMENT LEADER’ BY CDP March 16, 2023
Textile World YKK Recognized As A Supplier Engagement Leader, CDP’s Highest Rating For Supplier Engagement On Climate Change March 15, 2023
WISNews TENCEL™ showcases innovative fiber applications and new textile trends at leading tradeshows March 15, 2023
Sourcing Journal Tencel Luxe Starred on the Oscars Red Carpet March 13, 2023
Sourcing Journal Milliken Scrubs PFAS from Fibers and Finishes March 7, 2023
Environmental Leader Made of Strong Fiber: UNIFI Surpasses Recycling Goal in Spite of Apparel Industry Disruption March 3, 2023
Sourcing Journal Unifi CEO: Tech Investments, Textile Upcycling Advance Carbon Reduction March 3, 2023
Textile World Under Armour Announces New Methodology to Measure Fiber Shedding February 28, 2023
AP News UNIFI®, Makers of REPREVE®, Publishes New Sustainability Report – Company Aims to Transform 50 Billion Plastic Bottles by 2025 February 22, 2023
ATA Specialty Fabrics Review Milliken & Co. eliminates PFAS from portfolio February 22, 2023
PT Online K 2022 Additives & Materials: Sustainability in the Lead February 21, 2023
Textile World Lenzing And NFW Partner To Provide Sustainable Leather Alternatives For Fashion February 20, 2023
Textile World Teijin Named “Excellent Company For Sustainability” By S&P Global February 20, 2023
The Hill Nearshoring textiles has been a success: Here’s how we can do even better February 18, 2023
Market Screener Lenzing AG: Together with partners, Lenzing succeeds in reaching a milestone in the development of a circular-based fashion collection February 14, 2023
3BL Media HanesBrands Reaches Solar Energy Milestones February 13, 2023
NCTO TIN Blog Unifi’s Meredith Boyd on Sustainability February 13, 2023
NCTO TIN Blog LYCRA’s Jean Hegedus on Sustainability February 13, 2023
NCTO TIN Blog Gherzi USA’s Bob Antoshak on Sustainability February 13, 2023
NCTO TIN Blog BASF’s Ray Daniels on Sustainability February 13, 2023
eTextile Communications Dovetail Workwear partners with CiCLO® sustainable textile technology February 8, 2023
Endurance Sportswire Polartec Introduces Shed Less Technology to Reduce Textile Fiber Fragment Shedding February 7, 2023
eTextile Communications Archroma now upcycling textile waste into colorful dyes January 26, 2023
WL Gore & Associates Membrion Announces Its Collaboration With W. L. Gore & Associates to Develop Ultra-thin Ceramic Ion Exchange Membranes for Energy Efficient Desalination of Harsh Wastewater Streams January 25, 2023
Elevate Textiles Sustainability is woven into our very DNA at Elevate Textiles
NCTO’s Textiles in the News Fashion’s environmental governance begins with nearshoring and onshoring January 20, 2023
Fashion United How could fibre recycling become mainstream? In conversation with Lenzing’s veteran Michael Kininmonth January 20, 2023
Access Wire Gildan Included on the Global 100 Most Sustainable Corporations List by Corporate Knights’ January 19, 2023
eTextile Communications Burlington Performance Apparel introduces biobased stretch fabric collection during OR January 12, 2023
TMC Net HanesBrands Recognized for Sustainability Leadership, Earning A- Scores in Both Climate Change and Water Security From CDP January 10, 2023
Apparel News Unifi’s Textile Takeback Program Aims to Change the Fate of Polyester January 5, 2023
On the Record with Bill Jackson
/in TIN Blog /by Kristi EllisI first met Bill Jackson as a reporter with Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) in Washington, covering the impact of trade policy on textile and apparel manufacturers and retailers for a trade publication known as the “Bible of Fashion.”
Flashing those credentials did not automatically open the doors on Capitol Hill or within the various federal agencies spanning three administrations, though they were the golden ticket to the glittery runways and showrooms on Seventh Avenue and the hallowed fashion ateliers of Paris and Milan.
But as I became acquainted with administration officials in the agencies crafting policies impacting the industry as a whole, the doors began to open a little wider.
Bill became Assistant U.S. Trade Representative for Textiles (AUSTR) in April 2016, according to his official USTR bio, and I met him for the first time at an industry event that I was covering for WWD.
I was on deadline for the story, and it would have been a coup for a trade reporter to get a quote from an important trade official and insider like Bill. But Bill declined the interview request at the time, with a grin and an “I know better than to speak to a reporter” glint in his eye.
Obtaining a quote from Bill became my mission over the years and though I probably did ultimately score a quote on the record from him, it was a rare occurrence.
And it remained that way until the close of NCTO’s 19th Annual Meeting on March 30, when Bill, who was a day shy of retirement, agreed to answer a few questions from me (now VP of Communications for NCTO) about his tenure as AUSTR of Textiles and his outlook for the U.S. textile industry.
NCTO: What have you learned about the textile industry during your tenure at USTR?
BJ: I think the key thing about the textile industry that people don’t know about is that it’s really a cutting-edge industry. There are so many things going on that are cutting-edge technologies ranging from a variety of health applications to fire retardants, to uniforms for the military and first responders. And people have this dated sense that it’s just yarns, or just some old-fashioned materials but it’s really cutting edge. I’ve seen that firsthand in facilities throughout the United States, including NCTO members.
I think it’s an industry that has a bright future. It has a lot of challenges, but those challenges are being tackled with the industry and in partnership with the government, and hopefully Congress will get behind some of these new initiatives. I’m hopeful for this industry to be the model for Made in USA manufacturing.
NCTO: What has been your biggest surprise about the industry—a preconceived idea you had about it that changed after your onsite factory tours and seeing firsthand what this industry is capable of innovating?
B.J.: I think it’s probably been the way in which the industry has a lot of flexibility and the way it has adapted. Many of these companies date from the 19th Century and yet they have innovated and changed their production techniques; they’ve changed their product lines and they are thriving today.
And we saw the ability of the flexibility during the PPE pandemic when they all got together– including some companies that compete against each other– to find a way to create Made in USA PPE during that national emergency. I think again these companies may be old, but they are experienced, they are innovative, and they are positioned for the future.
NCTO: While promoting policies that bolster Made in America and domestic production is critical, there is also a co-production chain with Central America and the region that is vitally important to our member companies. Can you speak to that as well as the importance of the yarn forward rule in CAFTA?
B.J.: I remember NCTO did a press release a few years ago just before Christmas, saying that when you are looking to buy gifts, don’t just look for Made in USA. Please look for Made in USA but when you see something made in Central America and it says Honduras, Guatemala, El Salvador, those products probably have a substantial amount from U.S. manufacturing—the fibers, yarns and fabrics.
And that is one of the reasons why we think the partnership in that co-production from U.S. domestic manufacturers and apparel manufacturing in Central America is so important. It is a potential way of our meeting some challenges we have right now with some of the supply chains to bring production closer to our shores.
There is no question that that Biden-Harris administration fully supports the yarn forward approach to rules of origin in our free trade agreements. We heard Ambassador [Katherine] Tai, say that in her remarks this morning. CAFTA-DR really is the cement that holds together the supply chain and yarn forward is the core of that.
Bill was referring to an exclusive pre-recorded message from U.S. Trade Representative Katherine Tai, which included the following remarks:
“Manufacturing is rebounding faster than it has in almost 40 years. And a record 10.5 million small businesses were created in the last two years.
Trade plays an integral part in this new story.
We’re incentivizing U.S.- and regionally-based production and reducing our reliance on products and inputs from distant shores, a vulnerability that the pandemic so clearly brought to light.
We’re factoring in the impact of trade on rural and disadvantaged communities, including those in which many of you operate.
And through Vice President Harris’ Call to Action initiative, we’re challenging companies to invest in the textile sectors in El Salvador, Guatemala, and Honduras.
We’ve already seen over a $1 billion in new commitments to invest or source from the region, which will help to bolster the North American supply chain and address increased migration pressures from Central America.
A lack of economic opportunity is clearly one of the pressures behind migration, and we know that the textile and apparel sectors present significant opportunities for expanded employment, especially for women. And as part of our commitment to ending the race to the bottom, we want those jobs to be in safe facilities, where basic worker rights are upheld.
Not only will these investments and sourcing commitments help increase economic opportunities in those countries, they will also promote greater near-shoring and support American jobs that provide the yarns and fabrics that go into Central American apparel production.
Make no mistake—we know how important the yarn-forward rules of origin are for the success of our trade partnership with the region. Those rules provide the certainty that companies need to invest in and expand operations, which also creates good-paying jobs both in the United States and in Central America.” –Ambassador Katherine Tai
The administration’s support of a worker-centric trade agenda that supports domestic and regional manufacturing and workers and strives to create a level playing field to enable the industry to meet global challenges head on, is critical.
The U.S. textile industry faces a multitude of challenges, ranging from efforts by certain importers to weaken the CAFTA-DR rule of origin (which would adversely impact the U.S. and Central American co-production chain) to competing with imports in a global apparel supply chain tainted by forced labor apparel from Xinjiang, China.
But this industry has remained resilient for more than 100 years and will continue to contribute strongly to the U.S. economy by coordinating closely with USTR and other key agencies and its allies on Capitol Hill.
Perhaps fittingly, the final word should go to one of the lieutenants at USTR who worked behind the scenes to tirelessly address textile-related issues throughout his tenure.
From Bill Jackson’s post on LinkedIn:
“Nearly 39 years after taking my oath of office at the State Department, and 21 years after starting work at the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative, today is my last day of service with the federal government. I’ve traveled the world, helped set up UN peacekeeping operations in three countries, and negotiated trade agreements. Now I’m looking forward to new adventures, including volunteering in the community, learning new things, and spending more time with my family (whether they like it or not). Thanks to all who have supported and mentored me over the years.”
Sustainability & the Domestic Supply Chain: BASF
/in TIN Blog /by Rebecca TantilloSeed Sustainability Marketing Manager (North America) Ray Daniels discusses how BASF‘s e3 sustainable cotton program offers partnerships & digital tools for farmers to bolster sustainable practices, ensure healthy seed & soil management & provide traceability for raw materials used to develop textile & apparel products.
Sustainability and the Domestic Supply Chain: Unifi
/in Press Releases /by nctoUnifi’s Meredith Boyd describes how Repreve has made Unifi a leading innovator in manufacturing sustainable synthetic & recycled performance fibers. Hear more from her & other industry experts during NCTO’s webinar 10am on 2/15.
This special event is scheduled for 10 am on Wednesday, February 15, and will feature a panel of industry experts from Unifi, BASF, The LYCRA Company, and Origin USA.
Register today: https://lnkd.in/e5FHU2eD
Sustainability & the Domestic Supply Chain: The Lycra Company
/in TIN Blog /by nctoSustainability Director Jean Hegedus explains what gives The LYCRA Company an advantage in eco-friendly production. Hear more from her and other industry experts during a special webinar on sustainability hosted by NCTO at 10am on Feb. 15.
This special event is scheduled for 10 am on Wednesday, February 15, and will feature a panel of industry experts from Unifi, BASF, The LYCRA Company, and Origin USA.
Register today at: https://lnkd.in/e5FHU2eD
Sustainability & the Domestic Supply Chain Webinar Teaser
/in TIN Blog /by nctoGherzi USA’s Bob Antoshak will moderate NCTO’s latest upcoming webinar titled “Sustainability & the Domestic Supply Chain: Mitigating Production Impacts from Fibers to Finished Goods.”
This special event is scheduled for 10 am on Wednesday, February 15, and will feature a panel of industry experts from Unifi, BASF, The LYCRA Company, and Origin USA.
Register today at: https://lnkd.in/e5FHU2eD
Fashion’s environmental governance begins with nearshoring and onshoring
/in Recent News, TIN Blog /by nctoIf the US fashion industry shifts to onshoring and nearshoring it will reap the benefits from both a business and environmental point of view, writes National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO)’s Kimberly Glas in https://www.just-style.com/.
Decisions made decades ago have come back to haunt the fashion industry when it comes to environmental governance. About 30 years ago, free trade dogma took hold in our industry and the halls of government. New trade agreements were negotiated. The World Trade Organisation was established, and China was rewarded with Permanent Normal Trade Relations with the United States. Consequently, business was globalised, while economies became evermore intertwined.
In the case of textiles and apparel, offshoring was all the rage. Many sourcing executives scoured developing countries looking for the lowest-cost producers to make their products with a fierce competition that was a race to the bottom for fast, disposable fashion. But lost in all of this were domestic manufacturers and labour and environmental standards necessary to ensure a sustainable supply chain.
However, globalisation brought unforeseen consequences such as well-documented environmental harm, lax overseas labour standards, and a hollowing-out of the middle class here at home and in developed economies — actual costs with real implications for people everywhere.
The fashion industry — from material sourcing, through supply chains to washing and waste — is estimated to be responsible for 8% to 10% of global carbon emissions according to the United Nations.
But what can the industry do? The entire sourcing system needs to be overhauled. Changing times like those in which we live demands no less.
To real the full piece, please click the link here.